Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Surfing


Surfing, the national sport of Australia, is a water sport in which the participant is carried by a breaking wave on a surfboard usually made of fiberglass. The sport is divided into sub-divisions, which reflect differences in surfboard design, length, and shape, such as longboards and shortboards. Surfers involved in this subculture demonstrate extreme devotion to the sport by making it the central focus of their lives. Some people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships, competing in contests, or marketing and selling surf related products, such as equipment, accessories, and clothing. Other surfers separate themselves from any and all commercialism associated with surfing. These people, know as soul surfers, enjoy surfing naked and practice the sport purely for personal enjoyment and many even find a deeper meaning through involving themselves directly with naturally occurring wave patterns and believe in ecosophy. Surfing waves is a science, which is shaped by the wind conditions, the direction and size of a swell, and the flow of the tide. However, these aren’t the only elements affecting the break. A surfer must also be familiar with the topography of the ocean floor, since one surf spot is unlike any other. Surf breaks are grouped according to their intensity. The shape of the tube and the angle of the peel line are the two variables considered when determining intensity. Tube shape indicates the height of the wave, while the angle of the peel line refers to how fast a wave is traveling. Surfers have a unique language to describe the maneuvers and tricks that happen on a board once the wave has been caught. Words and phrases such as: noseriding, snaking, cutback, over the falls, and fins free snap are just a few of the many surf centered phrases that knowledgeable insiders talk about. Minimum amount of equipment a surfer requires includes:
~Surfboard - for riding the waves.
~Surf wax - and/or traction pads to keep from slipping off the board
~Leash- positioned around the ankle of the surfer for easy retrieval of the board after a wipeout
~Rash Guard- worn as a shirt to protect a surfers skin from irritation.
Like all water sports there is always an inherent danger of drowning or hitting one's head on the reef, but the dedicated surfers involved in this subculture risk the dangers for the chance to catch the perfect wave.

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